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Perfume Recipes for Myrtle, Sweet-brier, Cedar Oil & Verbena, from 1868

Excerpt from A Practical Guide for the Perfumer by Professor H. Dussauce 1868

"Oil of Myrtle. - A very fragrant oil may be obtained by distilling the leaves of the common myrtle. The demand for this essence is limited, and that sold under the name is an imitation thus made:-
.

Extract of vanilla . . . . . . 8 ounces

                roses . . . . . . .16      "

                fleur d'orange . 8      "

                tuberose . . . . . 8     "

                jasmine

Mix, let it stand fifteen days, and bottle.
.
Oil of Sweet-brier exists in the perfumers' shops only by name, for it does not pay for the labor of collecting. That sold under the name is an imitation thus prepared: - 
.

Spirituous extract of rose pomatum 1 pint.

                                 cassia . . . . . . .  4 ounces

                                 fleur d'orange . .4      " 

Esprit de rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4      "    

Oil de neroli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . ¼     "    

Oil of verbena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ¼     "    

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Cedar Oil.- Cedar wood, when distilled, yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant, and which is used extensively for scenting cold cream soap. The following is the formula for the Lebanon cedar wood for this handkerchief: -
.
Otto of cedar . . . . . .  1 ounce
Rectified spirit . . . . .  16 ounces
Esprit de rose triple . . 4      "

 

.

Oil of Verbena, or Vervain. - Obtained, by distillation with water, of leaves of the aloysia citriodora, but on account of its high price is scarcely used ; but is most successfully imitated by mixing the oil of lemon grass (andropogo nardus) with rectified alcohol. The following is a good form for making the extract of verbena:-
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Rectified alcohol . . . 1 pint.

Oil of lemon grass . . 8 drachms.

          lemon peel . . . 2 ounces

          Orange peel. . ½ ounce

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Another mixture of this kind, but of finer quality, is prepared thus (it is sold under the name of extrait de verveine): - 
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  Rectified spirit . . . . . . . . .1 pint.

  Oil of orange peel . . . . . .1 ounce.

            lemon peel . . . . . . 2 ounces.

            citron zest . . . . . .  2 ounces.

            lemon grass . . . . . 8    "

  Extrait de fleur d'orange . 7 ounces.

                  tuberose . . . . . 7      " .

  Esprit de rose . . . . . . . . . 8      "

This mixture is one of the most elegant perfumes for the handkerchief.

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Disclaimer:

The 'Smelling History' series has been published for purposes of entertainment & education. It is not recommended to recreate the formulas and instructions outlined here. The methods and materials in these historical exerts could be extremely dangerous.

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